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The 7 Principles of Xeriscape, Revisited 30 Years Later

By now most people in the western U.S. are familiar enough with Xeriscape to know that there is indeed no “zero” in the pronunciation (it’s pronounced more like zeer-escape).  The term Xeriscape 7 Principleswas coined by the Denver Water Department in 1981, are derived from the Greek word “xeros”, meaning dry.

There are 7 principles that make up the concept of Xeriscape:  planning and design, improving the soil, creating practical turf areas, irrigating efficiently, proper plant selection, using mulch, and maintaining the landscape.

While I am not sure EXACTLY when the 7 principles were first released (my guess is a few years after the term Xeriscape was first used), I have often wondered whether an update was needed, or if the same 7 principles would be adopted exactly the same today.

While today Xeriscape remains as relevant as ever, there are some important observations I have made through experience regarding the 7 principles, common misconceptions about them, and how they relate to landscaping in today’s rapidly changing world.  Therefore, I thought it might be helpful to revisit and add updates to the original 7 principles:

Principle #1: Planning & Design

Updates:  Planning and design is as important today as ever.  Landscapes continue to get more complex as dozens of new plant choices are introduced each year, along with advances in irrigation systems and controllers.  The more complex a project gets, the more benefit is gained from careful planning and design.

Another important development has been the landscape architecture license act of 2007, when Colorado joined the rest of the country in requiring that landscape architects be licensed, and that all commercial and large residential projects (greater than 4 units) have landscape plans that have been prepared by a licensed landscape architect.  While this may have raised the cost of design somewhat, a good efficient design will always pay for itself by minimizing surprises during construction, allowing plans to be competitively bid, and lowering maintenance costs over time.

Misconceptions:  Xeriscape can only be done in one style.  A design will make the project cost more.

Principle #2: Soil Improvements

Updates:  This is one area that needs to be looked at closer.  The intention of this principle should be to “analyze and improve soil when needed, depending on what plantings are proposed”.  The problem has been that many cities and municipalities started to require that all landscaped areas have large amounts of amendment incorporated into the soil over the entire landscaped area, and even requiring dump tickets from the contractors to prove that the amendments were placed.

While this is a good idea for bluegrass and for some types of plants, there are many other plants were the amendment is detrimental to plant health.  Many of the very xeric and native plants prefer the native, rockier soil, and can suffer from root rot if soil is heavily amended with organics.  I personally think that the amendment should only be tilled into new bluegrass areas, and in the individual planting backfill of those plants that will benefit from it.

Misconceptions:  All plants require soil improvements.

Principle #3: Practical Turf Areas

Updates:  I am not sure whether the original principle read “Practical Turf Areas” or “Practical Bluegrass Sod Areas”.  One of the trends I am seeing that we are starting to use in our designs is the creation of “turf” areas from groundcovers and/or spreading perennials and shrubs.  The questions that one needs to ask is not only where will the lawn areas be, but does an area really need to be a “lawn” at all?

Many of the bluegrass turf alternatives are very difficult and sometimes expensive to get established.  If an area of the landscape will not be used for games and high foot traffic, then why substitute a hard-to-grow lawn alternative for bluegrass when there are many good spreading plants that are easy to grow?  In other words, if a “turf” area will not be used, it simply becomes a low growing visual element, in which case many planting alternatives should be explored.

Misconceptions:  Xeriscape means no grass, and bluegrass turf cannot be used in a Xeriscape.

Principle #4: Efficient Irrigation

Updates:  Many advancements in irrigation have been made in the past several years, making it possible to irrigate even more efficiently.  However, many of these benefits have been over-hyped.  While I am all for making our irrigation systems more efficient, this approach does not address the underlying issue- how much water does my landscape REQUIRE to remain healthy?  Only by installing water efficient landscapes will any major impact be made.

Misconceptions:  If one installs new irrigation heads and a smart controller, the amount of water they will need to use will go down significantly.

Principle #5: Proper Plant Selection

Updates:  This principle goes hand-in-hand with a good design.  One of the overlooked aspects of this principle is a phenomenon known as “micro-climates”.  Microclimates are small climate differences that occur in the landscape due to sun vs. shade relationships, water availability and retention, wind, soil differences, etc.  Every day in this business I am reminded how plant selection is impacted by these micro-climates.

One area of debate is the natives vs. non-natives argument.  I am firmly in the non-natives camp.  There are some amazing native plants that I love to use, but there are also many non-natives discovered every year that meet the needs of our varying miro-climates.

Misconceptions:  Only native plants are appropriate to use.

Principle #6: Mulching

Updates:  The biggest problem I see with this principle is that all mulches are not created equal.  There are cost, aesthetic, and weight differences between wood mulch and rock mulch.  Not all plants like being heavily mulched, and some prefer rock mulch over wood mulch, for many of the same reasons some plants do not like a lot of soil amendment.  As a result, wood mulch seems to be getting a bad name for Xeriscapes.  I have even seen some cities write into code that wood mulch cannot be used for a low water-use zone.  But wood is often quite a bit less expensive than rock mulch, and is WAY easier to move around, plant in, and make adjustment to than rock.

The bottom line on mulching-  there are different rules to follow based on the type of mulch you are using.  If you use wood mulch, use a thin layer and be sure not to over-water.  If you use rock, remember that it will be difficult to add plants later or make changes to rocked areas.  Also, keep in mid the aesthetics- I feel that too much rock can make a landscape seem a little too harsh, and but having a combination of mulch types can help to visually break up large areas.

Misconceptions:  All mulch is the same, all plants love being mulched.

Principle #7: Maintenance

Updates:  This is the most undervalued principle.  For every 10 beautiful landscapes that I have designed and enjoy visiting time and again, there is at least one commercial landscape where even the most basic maintenance has been neglected.  Shrubs have been sheared off into little balls right before they were about to flower, weeds have overtaken a bed area, plants have been over-watered to death.

The biggest piece of advice I can give to property owners or managers is this:  walk your landscape once in a while, and make maintenance adjustments based on what you see.  Remember that plants are living things, and your job is to understand what will allow each plant to flourish naturally, with the least amount of interference (such as over-watering, over-pruning, etc.) while at the same time minimizing negative factors such as pests, weeds, etc.

Misconceptions:  All plants like more water, all shrubs need to be pruned, all plants have similar needs.

 This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

 

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Should Ornamental Grasses be Cut Back for the Winter?

Ornamental grasses are more popular than ever, and for good reason.  They can add texture to the landscape, and they are tough plants that are easy to grow in a variety of conditions.  Ornamental Grasses in WinterOrnamental grasses can also add beauty to the winter landscape.

But should ornamental grasses be cut back to the ground in winter?

Most ornamental grasses develop tall seed heads late in the summer that naturally persist through the winter.  When temperatures start to drop the plant will die back, leaving the dried foliage, stalks, and seed heads.  The general rule that you should cut back the grasses before the next growing season, so that the new year’s growth will be more vigorous and healthy.

I have found a couple of exceptions to this here in the Denver area, particularly with Mexican Feather Grass (Nassella tenuissima), which did not regenerate as well or look as good the year after I cut it back.  I have since started leaving it uncut, which results is the new growth coming up right through the beautiful finely textured golden old growth.  But with most varieties, they should be cut back before new growth starts in the spring.

So the question, then, is whether you should cut them back in the fall, or wait until the spring.  Many people enjoy the colors and movement that these elements provide in winter.  Others prefer a more “neat” or formal look.

I thought it would be interesting to explore the advantages each approach:

ornamental grasses winter interest

Advantages of leaving the grasses for the winter and waiting until the spring to cut them back

  • When shrubs lose their leaves, and perennials wither to the ground, grasses can provide form in the landscape
  • Texture:  Interesting textures can stand out, collecting frost or snow, and reflecting sunlight
  • Movement:  Winter winds and soft breezes can move and sway the stems and seed heads of ornamental grasses
  • The grasses can add color to the drab winter landscape, including shades of reds, yellows, browns, and blues
  • Upright grasses can be used to help screen views when deciduous plants have lost their leaves
  • The grasses can provide habitat and shelter for birds and other small animals

ornamental grasses cut back in winter
Advantages of cutting back ornamental grasses right away in the fall or early winter

  • This can be interesting and different look, I have seen some nice formal plantings that looked stunning with the grasses cut back
  • Some grasses hold their form better than others, while some varieties may flop over under heavy snow
  • Cutting them back may give the impression (rightly or wrongly) that a commercial landscape is being better maintained
  • In some cases the grasses may block sight lines, such as to important signage in a shopping center
  • In high foot traffic areas, it may be beneficial to cut back ornamental grasses to avoid them being trampled

So what do you think, is one method better than the other?  My personal taste is to leave the grasses up all winter, but there are situations where you may want to cut them back.  And you can always decide to cut them back later, if you feel the need to tidy them up.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects. For more information about our business and our services, click here.


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What Not to Do – Planting a Large Tree Directly Under Power Lines

No, this is not a new species of tree selected for it’s graceful “V” shape.

When large trees are planted directly under power lines the utility companies will hack them back with no regard for for aesthetics.  In general, it is always best to avoid placing trees too close to any utilities or permanent structures.

Tree Under Power Lines

Here are a few guidelines and things to remember:

1) In addition to being aware of overhead wires, always call for underground utility locates (dial 811 in Colorado) prior to doing any digging or planting any trees.  These fine folks will come to your property and locate with markings all of the underground utilities.

(more…)

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The Top 10 Benefits of Making Landscaping More Water Efficient

Converting an outdated landscape into landscaping that uses less water is not as hard as you might think.  And there are many benefits!

One of the best ways to do this is to convert your high water-use landscaping into a Xeriscape (pronounced “zeer-escape”).  This can be done anywhere-  from a small home landscape, to a large commercial property.

Many people have an image of Xeriscape as a “sea of rocks, with a few cactus plants”.  But Xeriscape can also be a lush, green and colorful landscape that is interwoven with flowering plants, textures, and beauty throughout each season.  In my opinion it is much more beautiful and interesting than “traditional” landscaping.

The Top 10 Benefits Are:

10.  Less Maintenance
9.  Use Less Water & Better for the Environment
8.  Prevent Water Damage
7.  More Beautiful, Colorful & Unique
6.  Better Wildlife Habitat
5.  Less Fertilizers & Pesticides Needed
4.  Better Suited to Your Site’s Unique Conditions
3.  More Winter Beauty
2.  Better Prepared for Drought
1.  Saves You Money

Now I will discuss each benefit in greater detail and explain what each one can mean for you:
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How to Winterize an Irrigation System

As the cold temperatures arrive across much of the country, irrigation systems should be winterized to avoid damage.

Whether you are a commercial property owner/manager that is overseeing maintenance, or a do-it-yourself homeowner, you should know the basics of the winterization process.  Here is a link to a good article from John Deere Landscapes that summarizes the winterization process nicely.  The author is from Michigan, but the process is the pretty much the same for any place that has freezing temperatures.

Is it necessary to winterize?  Some people choose to simply turn off the water and take their chances- I have talked to many people who have done just that without incurring any damage to their systems.  Here in Colorado, we often have sunny warm days throughout the winter.  However, we usually have at least a few days of zero-to-negative degree temperatures- and freezing temperatures can damage an irrigation system that has not been properly winterized.  Bottom line:  If you have invested a lot of care and money into your own irrigation system (or, you are providing maintenance for someone else’s) then it is well worth the small expense and effort to properly winterize.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

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